Category: New Zealand

So I pitched a tent for the first time yesterday. I thought it came out rather well for a first attempt. It was stable and I could definitely sleep in it for the night. But the instructions that came with it were poor and didn’t do a very good job explaining what needed to be done. I think it’s a bit difficult to walk someone through the process in 4 steps!

Thankfully I found a YouTube video of someone pitching the same tent like the one I had. I felt a little silly following a 12-year-old boy step for step but we got the job done. I will practice a few more times before I leave for the track tomorrow afternoon. It’ll only get easier from here (hopefully).

Besides that nothing much is really going on here. Just a relaxing couple of days in a quiet little town. My daily routine includes getting a coffee around mid-morning, sitting by the lake and reading (or practicing German), and then meditating before heading back to the house.

I am quite happy with my meditation practice as of late. I’ve been fairly consistent with it. Obviously, it’s difficult to sit every single day when you are moving around so much. But I’ve carved out time. It’s amazing how the quality of your health, your thoughts, and your life can improve once you remove yourself from the situations that cause you so much stress.

It’s quite obvious that my happiness levels have improved because I am doing what I want to do. But the other side of the coin is that I’m not doing what I don’t want to do. And that’s just as important.

The amount of stress my work had caused me made me sick at times. And I understand that sacrifices need to be made. But everyone needs to make a choice as to how much they are willing to sacrifice. This trip is helping me understand where I might want to draw that line.

Admittedly I didn’t take advantage of all the hikes that Queenstown had to offer while I was there. There were so many people to meet and it felt like a Friday or Saturday every night. I could have really pushed myself to go hiking every day but I am pleased with how I spent my time there. I had a really fun experience.

Today I moved even further south to this small town called Te Anau. It’s situated right on the edge of Fiordland National Park which many consider to be the most beautiful part of the country. This is where Milford Sound, the most popular tourist destination in New Zealand, is located.

Unfortunately, there was a large storm that hit the national park about two weeks ago. The road out to Milford Sound is currently closed and it won’t be open for at least another week it seems. I originally planned a tour there for the 20th but it was canceled. I won’t be able to visit the sound but I am not too upset. Just another reason to come back.

There are three major tracks in the Fiordlands. The Milford Track, the Routeburn Track, and the Kepler Track (listed from most north to most south). Due to the storms the Milford Track and the Routeburn Track are closed indefinitely. But the Kepler Track escaped the worst of the storm and is still open.

Thankfully, that is the trek I reserved to walk. I didn’t really have a choice when I made the reservation. The other two tracks had no availability. So in this way, I got lucky. I came to New Zealand to walk on some of the best hikes in the world. And that is what I will be able to do.

I will be in Te Anau for the next three days and my plan is just to relax. I want to get my body and mind in the best condition so I am ready for the 4 day journey.

I’ve learned to be open-minded to the experience. Often we close doors because we see little chance of a positive experience happening. But sometimes leaving the door ajar costs us nothing. And if that’s the case then there is no reason to shut it.

When I traveled to London with my family in 2016 I connected with this girl via Tinder or Bumble or the like (I don’t remember exactly which one it was). But we never had the chance to meet each other while I was in the United Kingdom. We continued talking on and off for the last three years and here I am in Queenstown, where she now lives and works.

We got together the other night and it was a very fun time. It is a bit odd when you feel like you know each other and you’ve never met face to face. But we clicked and it was just an awesome feeling to connect with someone on the other side of the planet. Especially when it seemed so unlikely years ago.

But that’s not the end of the story.

In December I was in Hanoi with my brother-in-law and we met this man from Argentina. His name was Santiago and we had a great time together. We still keep in touch.

He gave me his friend’s contact information and told me to reach out when I was in Queenstown. Santiago lived in Queenstown for some time and roomed with this man for several months.

While I was hanging out with my English friend I told her about this. She was shocked to learn that she worked with Santiago’s friend at a nearby hostel. He was the manager there and the two of them were actually quite friendly with one another.

This type of thing happens all the time to me and it’s so fun to experience. When you keep the door open you can really milk life for all it’s worth. Sometimes it just takes a little while to develop. I am so lucky to live in a time period in which technology and transportation help create a smaller world. It’s possible to have friends in so many different countries and it’s not difficult to develop those relationships if you want to.

Did you know that Americans are the only people that say “zee” when talking about the letter “Z”? Everybody else seems to use the word “zed” instead. I had no clue this was the case. It’s just one of those funny things that I would never have any reason to notice.

I tried explaining that “zee” is more proper because the alphabet song would not rhyme if “zed” is used. I assumed the British and the Canadians didn’t have the same alphabet song as we do. But the worst part is they do. And they use “zed” and it’s horribly wrong. I was balked at when I expressed this opinion. Oh well.

The last two days have been pretty low key. A part of me wanted to go and do the main track in town but it’s about an eight-hour walk and I decided that might not be a good idea at the moment. So I still got outside but stayed around the town. Walked around the lake and just hung out. The weather was fairly nice yesterday. We will see what the next few days will bring. It seems like rain is likely.

I have been meeting so many Germans in New Zealand. I think I have met 3 or 4 times as many Germans as compared to any other nationality. And to my surprise, I have only met 2 or 3 Americans so far. Not that I mind. When you travel you want to meet other types of people and that’s exactly what has been happening.

I’ve had a good amount of free time and I’ve been focusing on learning German again. I studied for maybe 3 or 4 months last year but I stopped when work got busy. I have a decent vocabulary but I have still have a ton of work to do. The grammar is extremely difficult! I just don’t think it is necessary to have 4 or 5 words for the word “the” or “a”.

But I definitely think that I can achieve a certain level in German. It’s just a matter of staying consistent with it every day. Plus, I plan on meeting a ton of people that can help me practice.

When I talk to people and tell them about my plans I am often told that ‘I am lucky’. And I find it quite odd because I don’t see it that way at all. I am not on this trip because I won a contest. I worked very hard to save my money so I could create this opportunity for myself. It took me years to muster up the courage to make this choice. Luck hasn’t had a part to play.

Anyway, last night got a little bit crazier than I was expecting. Queenstown is filled with young people from all over the world and it creates this energy that is palpable. It reminds me of the towns you find at the bottom of the ski mountains in Colorado, for example, Vail or Breckenridge. In reality, Queenstown is an alpine ski village.

I got a bit of a late start but I got some food and some coffee in me and I felt more motivated. Today has been a beautiful day and it seems like the rain is going to come along for the next couple of days. So I decided it would be waste if I didn’t get outside.

I got going just around lunchtime and headed towards Queenstown Hill. First off, it’s the biggest hill I’ve ever seen. There were some sections that were fairly tough because it’s just a trek straight up the hill. But the base is only a 15-minute walk away from the town which is very convenient.

I met some Americans on the way up and we spoke for some time at the summit. I probably spent close to two hours sitting at the top. The views were so majestic, it was hard to be in a hurry to leave.

There is another trek called Ben Lomond which actually gains more elevation and has more of a 360-degree view of the surrounding area. I would like to do it tomorrow because that is the only day that is guaranteed to have good weather. But we will see what I get into this evening.

I said my goodbyes to the friends I made at National Park and jumped on a bus to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. The bus ride took about 8 hours but I didn’t mind too much. The views from the window seat made the trip enjoyable.

I met this elderly woman on the bus and we chatted for quite some time. She was a retired teacher and she helped me understand more about the political and social culture of the country. I learned a lot from her.

She gave me her email address and offered me a room if I ever returned to Wellington. The people in New Zealand are so friendly. This is the only place I have visited where a two-hour conversation results in being offered free accommodation. Imagine striking up a conversation with someone on the New York subway and being offered a place to stay. That would never happen!

My flight to Queenstown left in the early morning and I decided to sleep in the airport in order to save some money. The sleeping bag I purchased functioned quite well as a pillow but I’ll be grateful to get back to sleeping in a normal bed this week. Between the trek and the airport, I haven’t had many nights in a proper bed lately.

The flight into Queenstown was very cool. The plane has to fly in the valleys between the mountains and as we were landing we got so close to the cliffs. Thankfully I got a window seat (in the emergency exit row to boot) and I got to see everything there was to see.

I’ve only been in Queenstown for a few hours but the scenery is remarkable. It honestly doesn’t look real. It looks like you are looking at a green screen in the distance. I had some time to kill before I could check into the hostel so I hung out around the lake and relaxed. It’s a magnificent place to meditate.

I woke up earlier than I expected which has been a common theme since I arrived in New Zealand. A group of four from France set off before the sunrise. Their plan was to hike from the Waihohonu Hut all the way back to Whakapapa Village. A total distance of 30 KM. It’s definitely doable but it seems like the ultimate challenge. I hope they finished without any issues.

Surprisingly my muscles were not sore at all. I was tired but my muscles were ready to go the additional 15 KM back to the village. I set off around 8 AM with the intention of getting back to the village by lunchtime.

Thankfully the track was mostly flat. It was a welcome reprieve. The views of both mountains were fantastic as I was walking in the valley between them. There were times when I was all alone. It felt like I was the only person on Earth, a feeling you don’t experience back at home. The walk was quite meditative.

About halfway through I started encountering more people. The last part of this trail is a day hike to Taranaki Falls, a small waterfall in the valley. I had some lunch by the waterfall and rested up for a bit before finishing off the last leg.

As I got over the last hill I could see the village in the distance, no more than a thirty-minute walk away. It was one of those moments that you laugh to yourself because you are so relieved. I was proud of myself. I can’t remember being more proud of myself in recent memory.

This was a challenge of both body and mind. I rallied myself and finished off the track with a smile. Had I made other choices I would be sitting behind a desk reviewing tax extensions at that moment. A feeling of triumph permeated through me. I felt as if I was directing my life in the direction I wanted it to go. There is no better feeling.

When I got back to Whakapapa village I hitched a ride to the hostel. Thankfully someone picked me up quite quickly. I didn’t feel like walking another 3 hours back!

Today I will jump on a bus and head to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. I will only stay overnight. My flight to Queenstown, a small city in the South Island, leaves in the morning tomorrow.

The mountains in the park play a big part in the mythology of the Maori people, the indigenous people of New Zealand. The story goes that Mount Tongariro and Mount Taranaki battled for the love of Mount Pihanga, the only female mountain in the area. Tongariro eventually won and Taranaki left with his tail in between his legs. Taranaki now stands along the western coast, far from Tongariro and Pihanga.

To learn more about the Maori legend click here.

We started very early on Day 2 and got going just as the sun was rising. The second day took us through the alpine crossing. We had to climb up the mountain and back down the other side to get to the next hut. This trail is also offered as a day hike and there were a lot more people on the trail than the day before.

The terrain changed drastically as we approached the ascent. What was once grassland turned into a barren wasteland. The volcanic activity in the area has continually suppressed the plantlife and only grass and some shrubs are able to grow.

The climb was not easy! It wasn’t only a matter of the elevation gain, which was roughly 500 meters. The trail itself was not stable. A lot of loose rocks and sand which made getting a proper footing difficult at times. We had to take it slowly to ensure we didn’t hurt ourselves. Carrying a pack with three days worth of equipment doesn’t help the cause either.

But boy, were the views worth it. It is a bit odd that such a wasteland could be beautiful but it absolutely was. At times I felt like I was on Mars. It was hard to figure out where to look as we approached the Red Crater and the Emerald Lakes.

The lakes are almost green in color, due to the minerals found in the water. It reminded me of Iceland because the whole area smelt of rotten eggs. Oddly enough I found the smell quite pleasing. By the time we reached the top, we had been trekking for close to five hours and we stopped by a larger lake nearby for lunch, promptly called Blue Lake.

After taking a rest we moved on. The other side of the mountain was even more like a desert. It really felt like we were walking through Mordor. It took us about another 2 hours to reach the Uterere Hut. Sarah and Shelley were staying there but I had to go to the next hut which was about another 3 hours away. I rested up for a bit, said my goodbyes, and moved along.

At this point, I was exhausted and was excited to get to the lodge. The track was flatter but like the first day very up and down. The landscape changed until I was finally at a forest with a small stream running through it.

After resting at the stream I had one more large ascent, the hut being in the valley on the other side. At this point, I had wished they had blown a tunnel through the hill because it was a bit of a struggle for me. But I took my time and persevered. I walked for about 11 hours and I slept like a baby that night.

I took the bus from Auckland to the center of the North Island to Tongariro National Park on Saturday. The trip down was quite scenic and the bus was fairly comfortable. It seems not having a car here won’t be much of an issue.

I stayed one night at the hostel and I had a great time meeting the people there. I met this one group that was taking a weekend trip from Auckland. Three of them were from Spain and the other girl from Argentina. I have been teaching everyone I meet wild card gin (thanks Luke!) and everyone seems to really enjoy it. This group was no exception.

The next day these two girls at the hostel gave me a ride to the start of the trail. The check-in process was not as intense as I was expecting it to be. I assumed the ranger was going to ensure I had all the necessary equipment for the trek but all he did was give me a map and point me in the right direction.

The trail I walked on the first day was not difficult. About 10 KM long and little to no elevation gain. It was quite rugged and the trail had a tendency to go up and down. So even though there was no net elevation gain I was going uphill some of the time.

It took me three hours to get to the first cabin – the Mangatepopo Hut. A small little lodge with about twenty bunk beds. The cots were solid but not at all comfortable and a sleeping bag was required. I met a few people that were traveling alone as well and we decided to hike the trail together the next day. We played wild card gin that evening of course.

The hut was facing west and there were no hills to obstruct our view of the sunset. It was a nice way to wind down before taking on a challenging day.

I did end up going to the light-show down at the bay last night. It wasn’t anything super special. Just a 10-minute display on the main bridge in town. I did meet this family from New Zealand and they couldn’t stop giving me suggestions and tips. So far Kiwis are as nice and friendly as everyone says.

I called it quits early last night because I wanted to get an early start today. I walked down to the ferry and took the boat across the bay to this small town called Devonport. There’s this tall hill there called Mt. Victoria that I climbed. It didn’t take very long at all and it afforded some dramatic views of the city and the bay.

I plopped myself down and read for a little while. I’ve been reading this book on the history of New Zealand. I will try to read books about the countries that I visit as I meander around. Knowing the history of the people really helps to enhance the experience.

While there I met another couple from the United States. This time from Coral Springs which is very close to where my parents live. They were telling me that Queen was performing in the city tonight. It would be pretty cool to go but I think I will have to pass. The tickets are quite pricey and I want to save my energy.

I leave tomorrow for Tongariro which is a National Park in the center of the north island. The hike will take 3 days and I probably will not have access to the internet during that time.